26. The Journey home

Arriving at Haneda Airport for our long-haul journey back to Europe, we were met with some frustrating news. Our onward connection in Munich Airport to Larnaca International Airport had been cancelled due to a pilot strike at Lufthansa. It was the second Lufthansa flight cancellation we’d experienced during this trip to Japan—hardly the farewell we had hoped for.

With little we could do about it, we continued with the first leg of the journey and boarded our flight with All Nippon Airways. Our aircraft, a sleek Boeing 787 Dreamliner, would carry us on an epic route home.

The journey itself was remarkable. We flew north over Alaska, then across the vast icy wilderness of Greenland, glided past Iceland, and finally descended into mainland Europe. In total, the flight covered more than 8,000 miles and lasted just over 14 hours—an impressive stretch of sky.

When we eventually touched down in Munich, the morning greeted us with steady rain. Thankfully, there was a small piece of good news waiting on the Lufthansa App. We had been rebooked onto another flight to Cyprus, though it would depart about three and a half hours later than our original connection.

By this point, exhaustion was beginning to take hold. After such a long overnight flight, the thought of several more hours in the airport, followed by the flight to Cyprus, arrival at Larnaca, and then the drive home to Pissouri did little to lift our spirits. Still, the end of the journey was finally within reach.

25 Thoughts of Japan

As our amazing trip through Japan comes to an end, we just want to say how truly special this experience has been. From the beautiful places we visited to the incredible culture we were lucky enough to experience, Japan has completely captured our hearts.

But what made this trip even more memorable was the kindness of the Japanese people. Everywhere we went, locals were so friendly, patient, and willing to help—even when there was a language barrier. 

Whether it was helping us find our way, recommending places to visit, or simply greeting us with a warm smile, their hospitality made us feel so welcome.

Japan is a country full of beauty, respect, and generosity, and we feel incredibly grateful to have experienced it.

                                          Mandy & Rob

24 A Day trip to Enoshima

Our final full day in Japan began with a few gentle sprinkles of rain as we sat inside Tully's Coffee, enjoying a relaxed breakfast of coffee and French toast. It felt like the perfect slow start to what we knew would be our last adventure before heading home.

After breakfast we made our way over to Yokohama Station, one of the busiest transport hubs in the country. Like many visitors navigating Japan’s famously complex rail network, we found ourselves staring at the map trying to work out our next connection. Before long, a friendly local gentleman approached and asked if we needed help. Encounters like this have been a recurring theme throughout our time in Japan—people going out of their way to assist complete strangers. He personally guided us to the exact platform we needed. Problem solved in minutes.

Our next ride was something completely different: the Shonan Monorail, a suspended SAFEGE-style monorail that glides through the cities of Kamakura and Fujisawa. Instead of running on tracks beneath the train, the carriages hang from a rail above, giving the strange sensation of floating through the suburbs. The train twists and swings gently as it threads its way between roads, houses, and hillsides on its journey toward the coast. It was unusual, slightly surreal, and great fun.

When we arrived near Enoshima, the sea greeted us with a sharp, biting wind. We quickly ducked into a small café to warm up before continuing our exploration. Soon after, we crossed the long causeway that links the mainland to Enoshima Island itself—and almost on cue, the sun broke through the clouds.

The island’s narrow main street was buzzing with life. Colourful shops lined the pathway, alongside tiny food stalls selling everything from grilled seafood to sweet treats. It’s the sort of place where you find yourself stopping every few steps just to take in the atmosphere.

To reach the island’s summit, we used the Enoshima Escar, a series of escalators built into the hillside that carry visitors up the mountain in four stages. Each level revealed something different—beautifully maintained gardens, peaceful temple grounds, and quiet corners that felt a world away from the lively street below.

By lunchtime we had worked up an appetite and stopped at TODAI kitchen Deli, a casual spot serving surprisingly good food at very reasonable prices. The highlight was the clam chowder, which was absolutely outstanding and perfect on a chilly coastal day.

After lunch we took the lift to the observation deck of the Enoshima Sea Candle, the island’s lighthouse tower. From the top we were rewarded with sweeping views across the mainland, the beaches stretching along the coast, and the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

For the return journey we boarded the charming Enoshima Electric Railway, affectionately known as the Enoden. This small electric railway runs about 10 kilometres between Enoshima and Kamakura and is often described as one of Japan’s scenic train rides. While it certainly passes through some interesting neighbourhoods—and even runs directly along the street in places—the famous sea views were fewer than we expected. Still, it was a pleasant and characterful ride.

At the end of the line in Kamakura, we transferred to a train back toward Yokohama, eventually arriving again near the waterfront.

There, by chance, we stumbled upon a small local bar called MASUYA KANNAI, a baseball themed bar.

The welcome we received summed up our experience of Japan perfectly. The staff were incredibly friendly, and what started as a quick drink turned into a relaxed evening.

 We enjoyed a couple of beers, shared a selection of small plates, and finished the night with glasses of cold sake.

It turned out to be the perfect ending to three unforgettable weeks exploring Japan.

   

23 Shinkansen to Atami

Today was always going to be a highlight of our time in Japan — the day we finally got to ride the famous Shinkansen, better known around the world as the Bullet Train.

Our journey began with a pleasant walk past the impressive Yokohama Stadium before continuing on to Kannai Station.

 From there we caught a short local train ride to Shin-Yokohama Station, the city’s dedicated Shinkansen hub. As we’ve found time and again in Japan, everyone we encountered — from passengers to railway staff — was incredibly friendly and helpful, making the whole experience effortless.

Tickets in hand, we stepped out onto the platform. Within moments a non-stop Shinkansen blasted through the station at astonishing speed. It happened so quickly that we simply looked at each other in disbelief — a blur of white and silver gone in seconds.

About fifteen minutes later our own train glided into the platform, precisely on time of course. We boarded and settled into our seats, which felt a bit like airline seats — only with far more legroom and comfort. Soon we were on our way, the train accelerating rapidly yet so smoothly you could barely feel the speed.

A pleasant fifteen-minute downhill walk soon brought us to the shoreline. On one side stretched a wide sweep of golden sand at Atami Sun Beach, while on the other sat a small marina gently bobbing in the sunshine. We strolled along the promenade, stopping often to admire the beautiful plum blossom trees that were in full bloom.

Continuing along the waterfront, we eventually reached the Atami Ropeway. The cable car cabins may have seen better days, but they still did the job perfectly, whisking us up the hillside in just a few minutes.

At the top the views were magnificent — sweeping across the town and far out over the sparkling sea. We walked up to Atami Castle hoping for something historic, but unfortunately it turned out to be a bit of a tourist trap and didn’t quite live up to the setting.

After soaking up the scenery we descended again on the ropeway and caught a local bus back into town. By now we were starting to feel peckish, and by happy accident we stumbled upon CIRCLE Atami, where we enjoyed a surprisingly excellent Indian lunch.

Before long it was time to return. We boarded the Shinkansen once more for the lightning-fast journey back to Yokohama — bringing to a close a thrilling day that had easily exceeded all our expectations. Riding Japan’s legendary bullet train had been everything we hoped it would be, and the little seaside town of Atami turned out to be the perfect destination for the adventure.

21 Noodles, a haircut and a evening cruise

After a hectic few weeks of travelling, we decided it was time to slow the pace and enjoy a more relaxed day in Yokohama. The morning was cold but bright as we set out for a gentle stroll through Yamashita Park, where the crisp sea air and views across the harbour made for a perfect start to the day.

From there we wandered over to the wonderfully quirky Cup Noodles Museum Yokohama—better known to us as the “Noodle Factory.” This time we took part in the fun of creating our own custom noodle cups. First we decorated the cups with our own designs, then chose four different flavour combinations before the staff filled them with noodles and vacuum-sealed them on the spot. They’re now safely packed away, and we may even be brave enough to try our creations when we get back to Cyprus.

Next we enjoyed a leisurely walk along the waterfront promenade beneath the aerial cabins of the Yokohama Air Cabin, heading toward the shopping complex of Colette Mare. Mandy happily disappeared into the shops while Rob went off on his own mission—to track down a proper barber. Success came in the form of Tony’s Barber Shop, where a classic haircut and a traditional hot-towel shave proved to be the perfect bit of pampering. As Rob was paying he was directed to a fridge to choose a complimentary beer !

As evening arrived, we headed back to the waterfront and boarded a short cruise across the bay with Yokohama Bay Cruise, sailing from Yamashita Park over to the historic Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse. From the water, the city skyline looked spectacular—especially the giant Ferris wheel at Cosmo Clock 21, which lit up the evening sky with its colourful light display.

Back on land, we wandered into the delightfully quirky Flashback Cafe, a cosy little bar packed with memorabilia. We enjoyed a couple of beers alongside a few colourful locals while a baseball game played on the television—one of those simple travel moments that ends up being surprisingly memorable.

From there it was just a short stroll into Yokohama Chinatown for dinner at Shigoroku Saikan Bekkan, where we finished the day with a superb Chinese meal. After a relaxed day of wandering, eating, and soaking up the atmosphere of the city, it felt like the perfect way to end our day in Yokohama.

18. TOKYO

We started the day by hopping on a local train into Yokohama’s main station, the gateway to the vast rail network that feeds into nearby Tokyo. From there we caught another train bound for the lively district of Shibuya. Unfortunately, it turned out to be a stopping service, and what should have been a quick trip felt like it took ages as we rattled from station to station toward the heart of the capital.

When we finally arrived, we headed up into one of the tall buildings overlooking the famous Shibuya Crossing. With a coffee in hand, we watched the remarkable scene below. From high above, the crowds looked tiny, streaming across the intersection from every direction whenever the lights changed. It’s easy to see why this is considered the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world.

Of course, watching wasn’t enough—we had to experience it for ourselves. We headed down to street level and joined the tide of people surging across the crossing. When the lights turned green, hundreds of pedestrians moved at once in every direction. It was chaotic, exhilarating, and strangely well-choreographed all at the same time.

After that we wandered through the streets around Shibuya, soaking up the atmosphere. Neon signs flashed, giant video screens played overhead, and the crowds never seemed to thin. It was a full-blown assault on the senses—in the best possible way.

Next, we jumped on an express train to Shinjuku. Arriving at Shinjuku Station was an experience in itself. The sheer number of people moving through the station was staggering, and the maze of signs pointing to countless platforms and exits was enough to make anyone’s head spin.

Stepping outside, though, Shinjuku felt a little calmer than Shibuya. The area is dominated by towering skyscrapers, each one different from the next, forming a dramatic skyline. By this stage we were ready for lunch, so we popped into Tavern on S for a simple but welcome sandwich and a cold beer.

Refreshed, we spent some time wandering the surrounding streets, craning our necks at the enormous buildings that seemed to rise endlessly above us. Our next stop was the Tokyo Metropolitan Government Building, where a lift whisked us up to the observation deck high above the city.

The views from up there were breathtaking. Tokyo stretched out in every direction like a vast model city, with skyscrapers, roads, and tiny moving trains disappearing into the distance as far as the eye could see. 

In the middle of the observation deck stood a piano where visitors were invited to play, and several talented pianists treated the crowd to some wonderful impromptu performances.

While enjoying the view, we were invited to sit down and sample Island Shōchū (Shimazake). This distinctive spirit is produced on the remote Izu Islands, far out in the Pacific south of Tokyo. Stronger than sake and closer in style to vodka or rum, these island spirits are made in small batches and are rarely found outside Japan, making it a memorable and rather special tasting experience.

By this point we were starting to feel the miles in our legs and knew we still had to navigate Tokyo’s famously complex rail system back to Yokohama. With a bit of head-scratching—and the occasional wrong turn—we eventually managed it. By the time we arrived back in Yokohama we were completely shattered, but it had been an exhilarating and unforgettable day exploring Japan’s incredible capital.