Farewell Theo

 Today we said goodbye to our dear friend Theo, and it’s hard to put into words just how much he meant to us.

When we first arrived in Cyprus over twenty years ago, everything was new and unfamiliar. But Theo was one of the very first people to welcome us, and that simple act of kindness made all the difference. We weren’t just newcomers to him — we were neighbours, living in the apartment above his family home, and from the very beginning he made sure we felt like we belonged.

Many people in Pissouri will remember Theo from the 1911 Bar, where his cheerful nature and easy smile seemed to light up the place. He had that rare gift of making everyone feel comfortable, whether you’d known him for years or had just walked through the door.

But for us, some of the most special memories were away from the bar — the barbecues in his garden, the gatherings at his farm just outside the village, the laughter, the food, and the effortless way Theo brought people together. Those moments weren’t just social occasions; they were a reflection of who he was: generous, warm, and full of life.

Over the years, Theo became far more than a neighbour or a friendly face in the village. He became a true friend. The kind of friend who leaves a lasting mark on your life simply by being himself.

Today, Cyprus feels a little quieter without him. But we’ll always carry those memories with us — the laughter, the warmth, and the kindness he showed from the very beginning.

Rest in peace, Theo. You will never be forgotten.

26. The Journey home

Arriving at Haneda Airport for our long-haul journey back to Europe, we were met with some frustrating news. Our onward connection in Munich Airport to Larnaca International Airport had been cancelled due to a pilot strike at Lufthansa. It was the second Lufthansa flight cancellation we’d experienced during this trip to Japan—hardly the farewell we had hoped for.

With little we could do about it, we continued with the first leg of the journey and boarded our flight with All Nippon Airways. Our aircraft, a sleek Boeing 787 Dreamliner, would carry us on an epic route home.

The journey itself was remarkable. We flew north over Alaska, then across the vast icy wilderness of Greenland, glided past Iceland, and finally descended into mainland Europe. In total, the flight covered more than 8,000 miles and lasted just over 14 hours—an impressive stretch of sky.

When we eventually touched down in Munich, the morning greeted us with steady rain. Thankfully, there was a small piece of good news waiting on the Lufthansa App. We had been rebooked onto another flight to Cyprus, though it would depart about three and a half hours later than our original connection.

By this point, exhaustion was beginning to take hold. After such a long overnight flight, the thought of several more hours in the airport, followed by the flight to Cyprus, arrival at Larnaca, and then the drive home to Pissouri did little to lift our spirits. Still, the end of the journey was finally within reach.

25 Thoughts of Japan

As our amazing trip through Japan comes to an end, we just want to say how truly special this experience has been. From the beautiful places we visited to the incredible culture we were lucky enough to experience, Japan has completely captured our hearts.

But what made this trip even more memorable was the kindness of the Japanese people. Everywhere we went, locals were so friendly, patient, and willing to help—even when there was a language barrier. 

Whether it was helping us find our way, recommending places to visit, or simply greeting us with a warm smile, their hospitality made us feel so welcome.

Japan is a country full of beauty, respect, and generosity, and we feel incredibly grateful to have experienced it.

                                          Mandy & Rob

24 A Day trip to Enoshima

Our final full day in Japan began with a few gentle sprinkles of rain as we sat inside Tully's Coffee, enjoying a relaxed breakfast of coffee and French toast. It felt like the perfect slow start to what we knew would be our last adventure before heading home.

After breakfast we made our way over to Yokohama Station, one of the busiest transport hubs in the country. Like many visitors navigating Japan’s famously complex rail network, we found ourselves staring at the map trying to work out our next connection. Before long, a friendly local gentleman approached and asked if we needed help. Encounters like this have been a recurring theme throughout our time in Japan—people going out of their way to assist complete strangers. He personally guided us to the exact platform we needed. Problem solved in minutes.

Our next ride was something completely different: the Shonan Monorail, a suspended SAFEGE-style monorail that glides through the cities of Kamakura and Fujisawa. Instead of running on tracks beneath the train, the carriages hang from a rail above, giving the strange sensation of floating through the suburbs. The train twists and swings gently as it threads its way between roads, houses, and hillsides on its journey toward the coast. It was unusual, slightly surreal, and great fun.

When we arrived near Enoshima, the sea greeted us with a sharp, biting wind. We quickly ducked into a small café to warm up before continuing our exploration. Soon after, we crossed the long causeway that links the mainland to Enoshima Island itself—and almost on cue, the sun broke through the clouds.

The island’s narrow main street was buzzing with life. Colourful shops lined the pathway, alongside tiny food stalls selling everything from grilled seafood to sweet treats. It’s the sort of place where you find yourself stopping every few steps just to take in the atmosphere.

To reach the island’s summit, we used the Enoshima Escar, a series of escalators built into the hillside that carry visitors up the mountain in four stages. Each level revealed something different—beautifully maintained gardens, peaceful temple grounds, and quiet corners that felt a world away from the lively street below.

By lunchtime we had worked up an appetite and stopped at TODAI kitchen Deli, a casual spot serving surprisingly good food at very reasonable prices. The highlight was the clam chowder, which was absolutely outstanding and perfect on a chilly coastal day.

After lunch we took the lift to the observation deck of the Enoshima Sea Candle, the island’s lighthouse tower. From the top we were rewarded with sweeping views across the mainland, the beaches stretching along the coast, and the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

For the return journey we boarded the charming Enoshima Electric Railway, affectionately known as the Enoden. This small electric railway runs about 10 kilometres between Enoshima and Kamakura and is often described as one of Japan’s scenic train rides. While it certainly passes through some interesting neighbourhoods—and even runs directly along the street in places—the famous sea views were fewer than we expected. Still, it was a pleasant and characterful ride.

At the end of the line in Kamakura, we transferred to a train back toward Yokohama, eventually arriving again near the waterfront.

There, by chance, we stumbled upon a small local bar called MASUYA KANNAI, a baseball themed bar.

The welcome we received summed up our experience of Japan perfectly. The staff were incredibly friendly, and what started as a quick drink turned into a relaxed evening.

 We enjoyed a couple of beers, shared a selection of small plates, and finished the night with glasses of cold sake.

It turned out to be the perfect ending to three unforgettable weeks exploring Japan.

   

23 Shinkansen to Atami

Today was always going to be a highlight of our time in Japan — the day we finally got to ride the famous Shinkansen, better known around the world as the Bullet Train.

Our journey began with a pleasant walk past the impressive Yokohama Stadium before continuing on to Kannai Station.

 From there we caught a short local train ride to Shin-Yokohama Station, the city’s dedicated Shinkansen hub. As we’ve found time and again in Japan, everyone we encountered — from passengers to railway staff — was incredibly friendly and helpful, making the whole experience effortless.

Tickets in hand, we stepped out onto the platform. Within moments a non-stop Shinkansen blasted through the station at astonishing speed. It happened so quickly that we simply looked at each other in disbelief — a blur of white and silver gone in seconds.

About fifteen minutes later our own train glided into the platform, precisely on time of course. We boarded and settled into our seats, which felt a bit like airline seats — only with far more legroom and comfort. Soon we were on our way, the train accelerating rapidly yet so smoothly you could barely feel the speed.

A pleasant fifteen-minute downhill walk soon brought us to the shoreline. On one side stretched a wide sweep of golden sand at Atami Sun Beach, while on the other sat a small marina gently bobbing in the sunshine. We strolled along the promenade, stopping often to admire the beautiful plum blossom trees that were in full bloom.

Continuing along the waterfront, we eventually reached the Atami Ropeway. The cable car cabins may have seen better days, but they still did the job perfectly, whisking us up the hillside in just a few minutes.

At the top the views were magnificent — sweeping across the town and far out over the sparkling sea. We walked up to Atami Castle hoping for something historic, but unfortunately it turned out to be a bit of a tourist trap and didn’t quite live up to the setting.

After soaking up the scenery we descended again on the ropeway and caught a local bus back into town. By now we were starting to feel peckish, and by happy accident we stumbled upon CIRCLE Atami, where we enjoyed a surprisingly excellent Indian lunch.

Before long it was time to return. We boarded the Shinkansen once more for the lightning-fast journey back to Yokohama — bringing to a close a thrilling day that had easily exceeded all our expectations. Riding Japan’s legendary bullet train had been everything we hoped it would be, and the little seaside town of Atami turned out to be the perfect destination for the adventure.

21 Noodles, a haircut and a evening cruise

After a hectic few weeks of travelling, we decided it was time to slow the pace and enjoy a more relaxed day in Yokohama. The morning was cold but bright as we set out for a gentle stroll through Yamashita Park, where the crisp sea air and views across the harbour made for a perfect start to the day.

From there we wandered over to the wonderfully quirky Cup Noodles Museum Yokohama—better known to us as the “Noodle Factory.” This time we took part in the fun of creating our own custom noodle cups. First we decorated the cups with our own designs, then chose four different flavour combinations before the staff filled them with noodles and vacuum-sealed them on the spot. They’re now safely packed away, and we may even be brave enough to try our creations when we get back to Cyprus.

Next we enjoyed a leisurely walk along the waterfront promenade beneath the aerial cabins of the Yokohama Air Cabin, heading toward the shopping complex of Colette Mare. Mandy happily disappeared into the shops while Rob went off on his own mission—to track down a proper barber. Success came in the form of Tony’s Barber Shop, where a classic haircut and a traditional hot-towel shave proved to be the perfect bit of pampering. As Rob was paying he was directed to a fridge to choose a complimentary beer !

As evening arrived, we headed back to the waterfront and boarded a short cruise across the bay with Yokohama Bay Cruise, sailing from Yamashita Park over to the historic Yokohama Red Brick Warehouse. From the water, the city skyline looked spectacular—especially the giant Ferris wheel at Cosmo Clock 21, which lit up the evening sky with its colourful light display.

Back on land, we wandered into the delightfully quirky Flashback Cafe, a cosy little bar packed with memorabilia. We enjoyed a couple of beers alongside a few colourful locals while a baseball game played on the television—one of those simple travel moments that ends up being surprisingly memorable.

From there it was just a short stroll into Yokohama Chinatown for dinner at Shigoroku Saikan Bekkan, where we finished the day with a superb Chinese meal. After a relaxed day of wandering, eating, and soaking up the atmosphere of the city, it felt like the perfect way to end our day in Yokohama.