The train from Kraków to Warsaw

On another lovely summer morning, we made our way to Kraków’s main railway station to catch the Pendolino express train to Warsaw. We decided to treat ourselves and had booked first-class seats for the journey.

The two-and-a-half-hour trip was extremely comfortable, with plenty of room to relax as we travelled through some beautiful Polish countryside. We were also treated to some very nice complimentary snacks and drinks served directly at our seats — a rather pleasant way to travel!

We arrived in Warsaw in the afternoon and, as we stepped out of the station, one of the first things to catch our attention was the enormous Palace of Culture and Science. This striking landmark, built during the Stalinist era as a “gift” to the city, dominates the Warsaw skyline and stands right in the heart of the capital.

From the station, we jumped into a taxi and made our way to our lovely apartment, which overlooks the peaceful Krasiński Garden. After unpacking, we decided to stretch our legs with a short stroll through the gardens.

Our first stop was Tablica upamiętniająca, a striking memorial commemorating the Polish fighters who took part in the Warsaw Uprising during World War II. It was a poignant reminder of the city's turbulent past and the enormous sacrifices made during the war.

From there, we continued towards Warsaw’s beautiful Old Town, eventually arriving at Rynek Starego Miasta, the Old Town Market Square. The square is surrounded by colourful historic buildings and is home to several interesting statues, including the famous Warsaw Mermaid, as well as some of the old-fashioned water pumps dotted around the area.

We continued our walk through the old streets, passing the impressive Archcathedral Basilica of St. John the Baptist, with its striking façade, before arriving at Sigismund’s Column, one of Warsaw’s best-known landmarks.

By now, we were ready for something to eat, so we stopped at the Polish restaurant Zapiecek for some drinks and dinner. We enjoyed a selection of traditional Polish dumplings, along with a hearty plate of goulash — the perfect way to round off our first afternoon and evening exploring Warsaw.

Auschwitz and Birkenau concentration camps.

A Sobering Day at Auschwitz and Birkenau

It was a 6.00 am start for me (Rob) on a bright but chilly morning. My van arrived on time, and along with six other guests, we began the one-hour drive to the Auschwitz Memorial and Museum.

As we arrived, we started our walk into the former camp, passing beneath the infamous “Arbeit Macht Frei” — “Work Sets You Free” — sign. It was a sobering moment, knowing the terrible history behind those words.

Our guide then took us through a number of the original barracks, explaining what life was like for the prisoners held there. The stories painted a horrifying picture of overcrowding, starvation, disease and unimaginable suffering.

We walked around the perimeter of the camp, much of it still enclosed by the original electric barbed-wire fencing. As we moved from one building to another, the reality of what had happened here became increasingly difficult to take in.

Inside the museum, some of the exhibits were particularly distressing. Personal belongings and other artefacts brought home the sheer scale of the human tragedy, and it was clear that some visitors were visibly upset.

We finished the Auschwitz part of the tour by visiting the gas chambers and crematorium. Standing inside these places was truly awful and, for me, probably the most difficult part of the morning.

After a short break, we took the fifteen-minute drive to the second camp, Birkenau. The first thing that strikes you as you arrive is the railway line running directly through the main gates. It is an image that has become synonymous with the Holocaust and one that is difficult to forget.

Once again, our guide showed us around the camp, including the wooden huts where prisoners were crammed together in horrific conditions, with little food, warmth or basic sanitation.

By the end of the day, it felt as though we had been given a salutary lesson in the terrible things that human beings can do to one another.

It is difficult to put into words exactly how I felt as we left the camps and began the journey back to Kraków. It was a deeply moving and emotionally draining experience, and certainly one that I will never forget.

Day 4 Jewish quarter, Krakow

Exploring Kraków’s Jewish Quarter

Another beautiful, sunny morning saw us heading across the river to explore Kraków’s historic Jewish Quarter.

Our first stop was the Corpus Christi Basilica, an imposing building with a beautifully maintained courtyard, complete with several statues. 

But it was the interior that really caught our attention. The magnificent Gothic design is a feast for the eyes, with the walls and ceilings seemingly covered in gold. Everywhere we looked there were intricately carved icons, ornate decorations and religious artefacts, making it a truly impressive sight.

From there, we made our way to Schindler’s List Passage, another rather sobering location associated with the film Schindler’s List. Kraków provided many of the authentic locations used in the movie, and standing in these places really brings home the history behind the story.

We then stopped for a coffee at Cytat Café, a quirky little place with a wonderfully unusual atmosphere. The interior is packed with books, giving it a cosy and slightly eccentric feel — just the sort of place you could happily sit for an hour or two.

Our next stop was the Remuh Synagogue, one of the most important Jewish sites in the area. The exterior walls carry plaques and memorials commemorating the Jewish community and those who lost their lives during the Second World War. It was another poignant reminder of the tragic history of this part of Kraków.

We continued wandering through the narrow streets and side lanes of the Jewish Quarter, where there seemed to be something interesting to discover around every corner. The area has a character all of its own, with historic buildings, small cafés and fascinating little details that make simply walking around an enjoyable experience.

By lunchtime, we headed back towards the Old Town and stopped at Ronnie Drew’s Irish Pub. I know, an Irish pub isn't exactly the most traditional Polish lunch stop, but the food was actually much better than we expected. Our waitress, Justina, was friendly and helpful, which made the experience even more enjoyable.

We chose to sit outside on the side street, which turned out to be a great spot for some people-watching. I opted for traditional Polish dumplings, while Mandy went for the pork schnitzel. Neither of us was disappointed!

After lunch, it was time to continue exploring, with plenty more of Kraków still waiting for us around the next corner.

After a restful afternoon we decided to take walk down the banks of the Vistula river , passing by the remains of the Old Ghetto wall. At the river, we found a bench by the riverfront and spent some relaxing time watching the slow moving water pass us by as the sun dipped over the rooftops.  We even saw two swans with their four young cygnets gentley glide pass us.

Day 3 Krakow Old Town

We woke up to a beautiful sunny morning and after a quick breakfast we  took the short walk over to Hero's square , a poignant  memorial  with sculptured chairs in memory of the wartime Jewish community. 

We caught the local tram into town, walked through the park (Planty) with its fountains, statues and shrubs until we came to St. Florian's Gate, one of the entry points of to the old medieval town. 

We continued along the main street with its quirky shops until we reached the mighty impressive St Mary's Basilica with its huge dual huge towers where we heard the famous bugler.  We the entered the Basilica,  which was quite crowded,  and saw its impressive and decorative interior. 

We the strolled around the massive central square with its impressive Adam Mockiewicz monument.   continuing on we walked through the Sukiennice market hall, a beautiful building but sadly containing only gift stalls. 

We walked on to the Old town hall which sits in another large square.

It was then time for a well deserved Coffee break so we stopped off at kult cafe for coffee and a bagel.

After our coffee break we strolled down to the river, where there was a food festival in the shadow of the mighty Wawel castle. We even managed to see the Dragon statue breath its fire.

We then decided to do a short river cruise that lasted about 1 hour which was on Relaxing boat  on the river Vistula river. 

After the river cruise we strolled through the town as the temperatures hit 28 degrees, stopping off to enjoying a ice cream and then a glass of wine back by the river.

 

We then crossed the river via the ktadkaojca Bernatka bridge with its unusual statues adorning the pedestrian walkway. 

We then had an Early dinner at the monkey business bar, a glass of cold cider and a tasty pizza. With tired legs we headed home, at the end such an enjoyable day.