Our final full day in Japan began with a few gentle sprinkles of rain as we sat inside Tully's Coffee, enjoying a relaxed breakfast of coffee and French toast. It felt like the perfect slow start to what we knew would be our last adventure before heading home.
After breakfast we made our way over to Yokohama Station, one of the busiest transport hubs in the country. Like many visitors navigating Japan’s famously complex rail network, we found ourselves staring at the map trying to work out our next connection. Before long, a friendly local gentleman approached and asked if we needed help. Encounters like this have been a recurring theme throughout our time in Japan—people going out of their way to assist complete strangers. He personally guided us to the exact platform we needed. Problem solved in minutes.
Our next ride was something completely different: the Shonan Monorail, a suspended SAFEGE-style monorail that glides through the cities of Kamakura and Fujisawa. Instead of running on tracks beneath the train, the carriages hang from a rail above, giving the strange sensation of floating through the suburbs. The train twists and swings gently as it threads its way between roads, houses, and hillsides on its journey toward the coast. It was unusual, slightly surreal, and great fun.
When we arrived near Enoshima, the sea greeted us with a sharp, biting wind. We quickly ducked into a small café to warm up before continuing our exploration. Soon after, we crossed the long causeway that links the mainland to Enoshima Island itself—and almost on cue, the sun broke through the clouds.
The island’s narrow main street was buzzing with life. Colourful shops lined the pathway, alongside tiny food stalls selling everything from grilled seafood to sweet treats. It’s the sort of place where you find yourself stopping every few steps just to take in the atmosphere.
To reach the island’s summit, we used the Enoshima Escar, a series of escalators built into the hillside that carry visitors up the mountain in four stages. Each level revealed something different—beautifully maintained gardens, peaceful temple grounds, and quiet corners that felt a world away from the lively street below.
By lunchtime we had worked up an appetite and stopped at TODAI kitchen Deli, a casual spot serving surprisingly good food at very reasonable prices. The highlight was the clam chowder, which was absolutely outstanding and perfect on a chilly coastal day.
After lunch we took the lift to the observation deck of the Enoshima Sea Candle, the island’s lighthouse tower. From the top we were rewarded with sweeping views across the mainland, the beaches stretching along the coast, and the wide expanse of the Pacific Ocean.
For the return journey we boarded the charming Enoshima Electric Railway, affectionately known as the Enoden. This small electric railway runs about 10 kilometres between Enoshima and Kamakura and is often described as one of Japan’s scenic train rides. While it certainly passes through some interesting neighbourhoods—and even runs directly along the street in places—the famous sea views were fewer than we expected. Still, it was a pleasant and characterful ride.
At the end of the line in Kamakura, we transferred to a train back toward Yokohama, eventually arriving again near the waterfront.
There, by chance, we stumbled upon a small local bar called MASUYA KANNAI, a baseball themed bar.
The welcome we received summed up our experience of Japan perfectly. The staff were incredibly friendly, and what started as a quick drink turned into a relaxed evening.
We enjoyed a couple of beers, shared a selection of small plates, and finished the night with glasses of cold sake.
It turned out to be the perfect ending to three unforgettable weeks exploring Japan.
No comments:
Post a Comment