Sunday, September 25, 2005

The Island of Santorini

 We drove over to the UK airport of Bristol to catch a flight to the Greek island of Santorini.

Shortly after take off we were told that the aircraft had a fuel leak and we would have to land at Charles de Gaul airport  in Paris. We were in Paris for a good nine hours, so the bar takings did well. We actually sat with the guy who spotted the fuel leak , he told that he had to quietly point out the problem to the cabin staff.


We finally arrived in Santorini at 5.30 am,

As the plane began its descent, we were treated to an unforgettable aerial view. The shimmering Aegean Sea spread out below us, and the island's rugged cliffs, dotted with whitewashed buildings, rose dramatically from the water. The caldera, formed by an ancient volcanic eruption, stretched out like a natural amphitheater, and the famous blue domes of the churches stood out against the dazzling landscape. It was breathtaking.

We finally arrived in Santorini at 5.30 am, everyone was very tired  and we slowly made our way to our base in Kamari.

 Kamari's beach is iconic, the dark sand creating a striking contrast with the deep azure water. Walking barefoot along the shore was a unique experience, with the texture of the sand unlike any other beach we had visited. Despite the intense midday sun, the laid-back energy of the village kept us relaxed. Sunbeds and parasols lined the beach, and we found ourselves frequently dipping into the clear, refreshing water, the waves gently lapping at our feet.

The promenade behind the beach was lively and filled with tavernas, cafes, and little shops. Here, the scent of freshly grilled fish and souvlaki was irresistible, and we spent many afternoons indulging in local delicacies under the shade of tamarisk trees. One of our favorite discoveries was a family-run taverna where the grilled octopus, served with a drizzle of olive oil and a squeeze of lemon, became our go-to dish. Mandy’s delight at trying the local cuisine, especially the fresh seafood, was contagious, and we made a habit of returning for more.

We walked down to the local dive center and booked a couple of SCUBA dives for Rob.

We took a local bus, a common and charming way to explore the island. As the bus navigated the winding roads, we were treated to glimpses of Santorini’s iconic landscapes.

Upon arriving in Fira, we found ourselves we wandered through narrow streets lined with pristine white-washed cottages, their bright facades gleaming in the Mediterranean sunlight. The streets were bustling yet serene, filled with the sounds of local life and the distant calls of the sea. As we strolled, the couple took in the unique blend of traditional charm and modern vibrancy that makes Fira so captivating.

We walked up the hill led to a panoramic view that left us  both breathless. Below them, the deep blue Aegean Sea stretched out, merging with the sky on the horizon. To one side, the village of Fira clung to the cliffside, a cascade of white buildings, and to the other, the ancient volcanic crater loomed in the distance, a reminder of the island’s powerful geological history.



We stopped off at a delightful taverna with more stunning view of the sea and out lying volcanic crater.



One of the highlights was a boat trip to the volcanic crater of Nea Kameni. Setting sail from the picturesque old port of Fira, the sun shone brightly overhead as the sea glistened in deep shades of blue. The traditional wooden boat we boarded had a rustic charm, carrying passengers eager to explore the island's volcanic history. The warm breeze, infused with the scent of saltwater, added a sense of excitement as we left the bustling port behind and headed toward the iconic caldera.

As we approached Nea Kameni, the island's volcanic origins became strikingly evident. Its rugged, barren landscape stood in stark contrast to the whitewashed beauty of Santorini's towns perched high on the cliffs. Stepping off the boat onto the island, we immediately felt the heat radiating from the blackened volcanic rock beneath our feet. The path leading to the crater was steep in places, winding through rocky outcrops and patches of sulfurous earth, a reminder that this was an active, though dormant, volcano.


After the visit We sailed on, t
he gentle sway of the boat beneath our feet and the cool sea breeze in the air made for a relaxing and scenic journey. As we sailed past the famous caldera cliffs with their whitewashed houses perched high above, the views were nothing short of breathtaking.

Our destination that day was the small fishing village of Thirassia, a hidden gem that seemed untouched by time. When we arrived, the village appeared like a postcard scene, nestled against the rugged volcanic landscape. The air was filled with the scent of the sea, mingling with the fresh aroma of grilled fish wafting from the small family-run tavernas along the shore.

We docked and stepped ashore, our feet crunching on the volcanic pebbles as we made our way through the peaceful village. The brightly colored fishing boats bobbed gently in the clear blue waters, and fishermen were hard at work, tending to their nets. Life here moved at a slower pace, a stark contrast to the bustling streets of Santorini’s main towns.


We sailed onto Oia and faced a long trek up to the town trying to avoid the donkeys on the way.

That afternoon, Rob boarded a small boat from the old port, bound for Nea Kameni, the island’s volcanic core. Mandy, always supportive but preferring the comfort of dry land, waved me off with a smile, camera in hand.

As the boat approached Nea Kameni, the dark, rugged cliffs loomed over us, a stark contrast to Santorini’s whitewashed beauty. The dive site was close to the volcanic island, famous for its underwater rock formations and geothermal activity. I was excited but also a little nervous, knowing that these waters hid the mysteries of a still-active volcano.

Once we anchored, I suited up. The weight of the gear was familiar yet exhilarating, a reminder that I was about to embark on an adventure unlike any other. The dive master gave a quick brief, pointing out the volcanic features we could expect to see. Bubbles of gas occasionally rose from the seabed – a reminder that we were swimming in a living caldera.

Descending into the water, the coolness hit me, a contrast to the warmth of the sun above. The visibility was incredible – a turquoise world stretching out before me. As I ventured deeper, the rocky underwater terrain came into view, jagged and blackened from centuries of volcanic eruptions. Schools of fish darted around, their bright colors standing out against the dark volcanic rock.

The most striking part of the dive was the geothermal vents. Bubbles of warm gas rose slowly from the seabed, creating a surreal landscape, as if the earth itself was exhaling. I hovered over one, feeling the slight increase in temperature, a gentle reminder that beneath the calm waters lay immense natural power.

At around 15 meters deep, the dive master guided us through rocky outcrops and canyons, carved out by volcanic activity over thousands of years. Every so often, I’d spot a splash of orange or red coral clinging to the rocks, a vivid contrast to the dark backdrop. The sensation of floating in this underwater volcanic world was both peaceful and humbling.

 Rob jumped on a dive boat and then did a second  another dive off Akrotiri beach.


It was pure coincidence that Mandy's sons, Rob and Johan, were on holiday in Santorini at the same time, we met up for a day on the beach followed by  a few drinks.

 We’d heard so much about the island’s beauty, but there was one experience we were most eager for: seeing the sunset in Oia.

Our journey to Oia started in the early afternoon. After wandering through the whitewashed streets of Fira, we hopped on the local bus that wound its way through the cliffs, offering breathtaking views of the caldera below. The Aegean sparkled beneath the blue sky, and the cool breeze brought a welcome relief from the heat. We arrived in Oia with plenty of time to spare, knowing that the village would get busier as the evening wore on.

And busy it was. The narrow cobblestone streets were already packed with people from all corners of the world, all drawn to this tiny village at the edge of the island. We could hear a mixture of languages, laughter, and excitement all around us. Every step was slow, as the crowds moved together like a wave, flowing toward the famous viewpoint for that perfect sunset shot.

Despite the bustling energy, Oia was stunning. The sugar-cube houses, the blue-domed churches, the tiny shops—everything felt like a postcard brought to life. We found ourselves stopping every few feet to take photos or admire the incredible architecture. Mandy’s camera never left her hands, as she tried to capture the magic of the place.