A visit to the Island Crete 2012

We took off from Paphos, Cyprus, bound for Chania, Crete, with the flight lasting only about an hour and a half. Once we touched down, we quickly collected our hire car, feeling that familiar surge of excitement to be back in Greece. Driving out of the airport, we made our way along the winding roads.

Nestled between the villages of Gerani and Maleme, the Solimar Aquamarine hotel was perfectly located for us—just far enough from the bustle of Chania but close enough for an easy drive if we wanted to head into town. It was about 14 kilometers out from Chania, giving us the best of both worlds: quiet relaxation and easy access to city adventures.

 

When we arrived, Kolymbari was everything we’d imagined and more—a cluster of whitewashed buildings nestled by the water, fishing boats bobbing gently in the small harbor, and the sounds of seagulls calling above. There were only a few tourists around, which gave the village an easygoing, relaxed feel. It felt as though time had slowed down here.Our first day of exploring took us along the coast to the small fishing village of

Kolymbari, this village is known for its fine fish restaurants.

We wandered through the narrow streets, soaking up the charm of this quiet fishing village. The smell of grilling fish and fresh herbs wafted out from a small restaurant along the waterfront. Mandy and I exchanged a knowing look—this was the place. We settled in at a table overlooking the water, the waves gently lapping against the shore, and ordered an assortment of seafood recommended by the chef: grilled octopus, stuffed calamari, and a few small plates of olives and fresh bread with olive oil.

Our drive took us to the port of Kissamos, where we boarded a boat for an excursion along Crete’s northwest coastline. The water sparkled under the sun as we set off, a crisp sea breeze carrying the scent of the Mediterranean. Our first stop was the small island of Gramvousa. As we approached, the sight of its ancient Venetian fort, perched on a hilltop, stirred a sense of history. Built in 1579, the fort had guarded these shores for centuries.

Not one to pass up a climb for a good view, I made my way up to the fort. The ascent was steep but well worth it; from the top, the views were nothing short of breathtaking. The surrounding sea, a kaleidoscope of blues, stretched out endlessly, and below, the rugged island contrasted beautifully with the vivid waters. Standing there, with the wind sweeping past and Crete’s vast landscape spread out before me, I felt an exhilarating sense of connection to the island's past and present.

After soaking up the view, we continued our boat journey to Balos Bay. As we approached, the water turned a stunning shade of turquoise, revealing the famous Blue Lagoon. The lagoon was shallow and calm, with sand so white it almost seemed to glow. Mandy and I waded into the warm water, taking in the natural beauty around us.

The following day  we hit the road again, our first stop was Agia Lake, a small but significant wetland nestled in the foothills, just a short drive from Chania. The lake itself wasn’t huge, but it was surrounded by lush greenery and alive with the sounds of birdsong.

 We continued our drive, passing through the villages of Skines and Keres, each with its own slice of Cretan charm. The road was narrow and winding, framed by olive groves and set against a backdrop of mountains, and as we moved further, we felt the pull of the island’s natural beauty in each twist and turn.

Our next stop was the small hamlet of Karanos. Nestled on a hillside, the village was peaceful and inviting. At its heart stood a beautiful church with an impressive bell tower and white stone walls that gleamed under the Cretan sun. From this spot, we took in sweeping views over the valleys below, dotted with fruit trees and bright, flourishing vegetation.

Eager to soak in all that Karanos had to offer, we decided to take a break and treat ourselves to some fresh orange juice. The locals were quick to offer us a taste, and it was nothing short of fantastic—rich, sweet, and bursting with freshness that only Crete’s oranges could offer. We savored each sip, allowing ourselves a few moments to simply breathe in the surroundings. It was one of those times when everything seemed perfectly in place: the scenery, the simplicity.

 As we made our way toward Chania, we were both excited to visit the town’s famed old port. I had heard it was beautiful, and Mandy was eager to explore the history surrounding it.

Once we arrived, the old Venetian harbor was stunning, with its colorful boats bobbing in the water and the iconic lighthouse standing proudly at the harbor’s edge. But as we wandered along the waterfront, we noticed a very different vibe than we’d hoped for. The stretch along the harbor was lined with restaurants and cafes all vying for tourists' attention. While it had a certain charm, the commercialization was a bit overwhelming, taking away from that old-world feel we’d anticipated.

Determined not to let it dampen our day, we ventured into the labyrinth of narrow alleyways just behind the bustling port. The difference was immediate — it was like stepping into another world.

 Our final day there, we decided to rent a couple of bikes for a bit of adventure and to soak in the coastline up close.

The ride itself was stunning, and despite the warm sun, a steady sea breeze kept us comfortable as we cycled along the coast. We took our time, enjoying the ride, passing small villages and olive groves until we reached Maleme. We could feel the weight of history as we approached the German war cemetery, its solemn rows stretching out across the hillside. Each headstone told the story of a soldier, a reminder of the Battle of Crete and the fierce resistance the island put up against the German invasion in WWII.

The small museum nearby was simple but incredibly moving. Inside, displays recounted the days of the invasion and the resistance that followed. Photos, artifacts, and maps gave life to those turbulent times, each piece a reminder of the people who had fought and fallen.

As we made our way to the airport, but on the way, we took a little detour to visit the British War Cemetery in Souda. The cemetery was strikingly peaceful, rows of headstones standing in dignified silence against the green hills, each telling its own story of bravery. It was a somber yet touching start to our adventure, and we spent some time wandering among the graves, feeling humbled and grateful.

Our final destination, however, was a hidden gem that we stumbled upon entirely by chance—a beautiful little cove at Marathi. This lovely spot took us by surprise, tucked away with a couple of sheltered sandy beaches that felt wonderfully secluded. The water was clear and inviting, and we could feel the stress of travel just melt away as we settled down on the sand.

There were also some charming tavernas around, perfectly priced and offering fresh, authentic Greek food that added to the peaceful atmosphere. As we relaxed with our meal, looking out over the beach with the warm Mediterranean sun on our faces, we couldn’t help but feel that Marathi had given us an unexpected taste of paradise.